Monday 18 June 2012

Bloomsday in Dublin

June 16th is known as Bloomsday in Ireland, a literary holiday celebrating James Joyce and his novel Ulysses. The novel follows a day in the life of a young man in and around Dublin, June 16th 1904, and the holiday is named such after the character in the book, Leopold Bloom. To celebrate, Joyce fans re-enact the scenes documented in the novel, swimming in the Forty-Foot at dawn, eating a breakfast of hearts and kidneys, and visiting the various pubs listed in the book. As I was sitting at a cafe in north Dublin, near the Joyce Centre on Friday, a parade of fifty old fashioned bicycles came past ringing their bells and singing. On Saturday, I went down to the Forty Foot to watch them swim in period swimwear- men's one piece swimming suits and women in bloomers.

Following that, I met Alex Skufca-- a friend from college-- in the city. He flew in for a few days to visit and so I took him out for a traditional Irish breakfast including black and white pudding, mushrooms, a poached egg, fry bread, rashers, sausages and tea. He was not ready for such a meaty, heavy breakfast, but he loved it.

We went back to Glenageary and the O'Deas, where Freda insisted on feeding us again-- more rashers and tea, and then we all went down to Dun Laoghaire and Glasthule for the festivities of Bloomsday!

There were people all through the streets of Dalkey, Glasthule and Dun Laoghaire dressed as if it was the turn of the 19th century. Women wore great hats and dresses, and the men were decked out in white straw skimmers, bow ties and red and white pin striped suits. There was singing up and down the streets- all the songs from the novel- and people sat outside the cafes and restaurants eating Bloomsday fair and drinking wine.

The literary festival was going on in Dalkey, in conjunction with Bloomsday, and readings of Ulysses were held in the local parks and down along the sea walks. It was very good timing that saw me here in Dublin for this eccentric and famous celebration. It was quite the sight to see!



Joyce enthusiasts bike through Dublin on Friday in preparation to Bloomsday

Ulysses readings were held in every major park in Dublin, including St Stephen's Green

Joycean fan reads Ulysses in front of the James Joyce Centre in North Dublin

The man himself- a statue of James Joyce on Earl Street



Dun Laoghaire People's Park on Bloomsday


The James Joyce Martello Tower, near the Forty Foot Swimming Point






Caviston's Eatery, along the street of Glasthule, where patrons sat
to drink their wine and sing Joycean songs


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